|
|
 |
HISTORY
Cotton
is a plant, it grows wild in many places
on the earth, but it has been known about,
cultivated and put to use by people of
many lands for centuries.
Scientists
and historians have found shreds of cloth
or written reference to cotton dating back
at least seven-thousand years. The oldest
discovery was made in a Mexican cave, where
scientists unearthed bits and pieces of
cotton bolls and cloth. Archaeologists
have also found cloth fragments in the
Indus Valley of India (Pakistan) dating
about 3000 B.C. In 1500 B.C.,
cotton
was referred to in a Hindu Rig-Veda
hymn mentioning "threads in the loom." It
is generally believed that the first
cultivation of cotton was in India,
though it grew wild in several locations
around the world. People living
in Egypt's Nile Valley and across
the world in Peru were also familiar
with cotton.
Cotton
was grown by American Indians in
the early 1500's, documented from
sightings by the Coronado expedition
1540-42. The Spaniards raised
a cotton crop in Florida in 1556. |
In
England, in the early 1700's, during the height
of the British Empire, it was against the law,
to either import or manufacture cloth from
cotton. These laws were enacted to protect
the powerful English sheep and wool industry
of that time. These restrictions also kept
the cotton industry from expanding to the American
Colonies. However, by the early 1600's, cotton
had been introduced to North America and in
1607 the first seed was planted by colonists
along the James River in Virginia.
The
colonists had the ability to produce much cotton
but were restricted by the mechanical know-how. It
was Samuel Slater, an English mill worker, who changed this
by migrating to America in 1790 and building
the first American cotton mill from memory. With
the development of the cotton mill, Eli
Whitney saw the need for a faster
means of removing the lint (cotton fibers) from the seed. In 1793,
he patented a machine known as the cotton gin. This
invention revolutionized the way lint was separated
from the seed. Up to that time, for centuries,
the separation process had all been done by
hand. With Whitney's gin, short for the word
engine, lint volume was increased for each
worker from 1 lb. To 50 lbs. per day.
Harvesting
the cotton by hand was another limitation of
productivity. An experienced laborer could
pick approximately 450 pounds of seed cotton (cotton removed from the plant
with seeds intact) by hand per day. A picking
device was first patented in 1850 and a stripper (a machine that strips both open and
unopened bolls and trash from the plant) in
1871. In the early 1930's, after years of
development and change, the Rust Brothers of
Mississippi used a one row mechanical cotton picker (a machine that used revolving
spindles or barbed points to grab and pull
the cotton from the open boll) of their design
to pick approximately 8,000 pounds of seed
cotton in one day. This was quite an improvement
in cotton harvest efficiency.
|
THE
PLANT
There
are several species of “wild cotton” (cotton
that grows uncultivated ) in the world. They
have been found in Australia, Africa,
Arizona, Central America, Lower California,
Brazil, Mexico and other tropical countries
and islands. Because of problems related
to their refinement, they are not economically
feasible to use. Through genetic assistance
and breeding, today’s cottons have
evolved from these “wild” sources and
are more processing friendly.
Currently,
there are five prominent types of cotton
being grown commercially around the
world. They are Egyptian, Sea Island, American Pima, Asiatic and Upland. Because
of their need for a long, sunny growing
period with at least 160 frost free
days they are grown between latitudes
45 degrees north and 30 degrees south. The
major producing countries within this
region are the United States, Peoples
Republic of China, India, Pakistan
and Republic of Uzbekistan. Also,
Brazil, Australia, Egypt, Argentina,
Turkey, Greece, Syria and others produce
significant, but lesser amount
In
the U.S. there are fourteen major cotton
growing states that produce Upland
cotton. They are Alabama, Arizona,
Arkansas, California, Georgia, Louisiana,
Mississippi, Missouri, North Carolina,
Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee,
Texas and Virginia. Some cotton is
also grown in Florida, Kansas and New
Mexico. American Pima cotton is grown
in Arizona, California, New Mexico
and Texas. All of these states form
a region in the United States known
as the Cotton Belt and have
three things in common, lots of sunshine,
water and fertile soil, very important
to growing a good cotton crop.
Upland
cotton being the most common type in
the U.S. has a staple length (length of fiber) of 13/16 to 1 ¼ inches. The
American Pima has a staple length of
1 5/16 to 1 ½ inches. These plant
types grow and mature at different
rates and lengths of time, but basically
mature within a 30 day period of each
other.
Cotton
plants have a general time frame in
which they grow and produce after planting (introducing the seed to moist soil). With ideal
conditions, the planted cotton seed
will germinate (to
begin to grow) or sprout and emerge
in about five to ten days. The first
2 leaves that are visible on the young
cotton plant are seedling leaves called cotyledons (cot-a-lee-dons). They are useful
for absorbing sunlight into the plant. The
sunlight is then converted through
a process known as photosynthesis, into nourishing carbohydrates that will
help the plant grow.
In
about two to four weeks they turn over
the photosynthetic task to true leaves (leaves produced subsequent to the cotyledons)
which continue the feeding process
for the duration of the plants life. The
plant continues to grow, adding leaves
and height, and in approximately five
to seven weeks, small flower buds called squares (a
small flower bud covered with fringed
leaf-like parts called bracts) will appear
on the cotton plant. As this square
develops, the bud swells and begins
to push through the bracts until it
opens into an attractive flower. Within
three days, the flower will pollinate (the transfer of pollen from the anther to the
stigma of the same or another flower)
itself, change from a creamy white
or yellow color to a pinkish red, and
then wither and fall, exposing a small,
green, immature cotton boll (a segmented pod containing 32 immature seeds from
which the cotton fibers will grow). This
boll is considered a fruit because
it contains seeds. As the fibers continue
to grow and thicken within the segmented
boll, it enlarges until it becomes
approximately the size of a small fig. Now,
the cotton fibers have become mature
and thickened with their primary growth
substance, cellulose (a carbohydrate,
the chief component of the cell wall
in most plants). An average boll will
contain nearly 500,000 fibers of cotton
and each plant may bear up to 100 bolls

In about 140 days after planting or 45 days after bolls
appear, the cotton boll will begin to naturally split open along
the bolls segments or carpels and dry out, exposing the underlying
cotton segments called locks. These dried carpels are known as the bur, and it's the bur that will hold the locks of cotton
in place when fully dried and fluffed, ready for picking.
The
growth cycle of the various cotton
species vary in length, but the sequence
of fruit production remain the same. Weather,
insects and moisture can adversely
affect optimum conditions for plant
growth and it is the farmer's responsibility
to adjust to these conditions to optimize
yield.
|
PRODUCTION
Before
cotton can be processed into the many products
it becomes. It must be planted, irrigated,
nurtured with fertilizer, protected from
unwanted
weeds, grasses and insects and harvested. This
usually means loosening the soil to the
depth of 1 to 2 ½ feet with tillage equipment. This
will allow water and cotton roots to penetrate
the soil and support the plant.
A seedbed (the row in which the cotton seed will
be planted) is prepared by listing (forming land into ridges and furrow) the soil.
This allows for faster warming of
the soil in the spring and directs
irrigation water across the field. Small
amounts of soil enriching nutrients,
such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium,
may be added to the soil at this
time.
Planting
may be done by hand, but in the
more advanced regions of the world, mechanical planters are used. |
When
the soil reaches optimum temperature, about
65 degrees, these implements will place the
seeds in the soil, usually 1 to 2 inches deep,
depending on soil type. The mechanical planters
can cover as many as 12 rows at a time.
In
some cotton production regions, where soil
erosion is a problem, conservation tillage is used. In this system, crop residue
from the previous crop or a cover crop
is left on the soil surface to protect
the soil from heavy rains and winds. A
special planter is used to open the soil
and place the seed without disturbing the
protective cover.
As the plants demand it, when available,
additional water is delivered to the fields. Sometimes
only from natural rainfall, called rain-feed farming,
or through irrigation (water
application through artificial means),
called irrigated farming. This can be accomplished
in 3 different ways; 1) furrow irrigation takes
place by simply running water down a seedbed
furrow, 2) sprinkler irrigation is
much like lawn sprinklers where pressurized
water is sprayed out over an area, and
3) drip
tape irrigation, this is
a relatively new method of irrigation using
buried tubing that releases water into
the soil beneath the plant.
Most
of today's commercial cotton farms use
a combination of weed control methods. Such
as, Cultivation which is done mechanically by machines
called cultivators, hand rogueing or weed
removal by people with the use of weed
hoes and the application of chemical herbicides (chemicals
used to control weeds). Chemical herbicides
can be applied before or after the cotton
is planted. Once the cotton plant has
emerged, cultivation and hand rogueing
must be done very carefully in order to
kill the weeds but not harm the growing
cotton plant. If the weeds were allowed
to grow, they would compete for nutrients
in the soil that are necessary for a healthy
and productive cotton plant.
When
the cotton plant is in it's seedling stage,
it is very susceptible to soil borne fungal
disease. There are several diseases that
can stunt the growth of the plant, cause
leaves to fall off, attack the roots and
make the plant wither and die. If the
effects of disease don't kill the plant,
low yields and a poor quality cotton will
result. Development of disease resistant
cotton seed has become a priority in the
industry. Cotton varieties resistant to
some fungi and other destructive organisms
have been developed and are being used
in certain areas. There is still more
research to be done before fungal disease
is no longer a factor in producing cotton.
The
plant's food, or nutrients, are referred
to in agriculture as fertilizer. Nitrogen, phosphorus,
potassium, sulfur, calcium and magnesium
are the primary fertilizer elements (macronutrients)
but there are several trace
elements (micronutrients
required in small quantities for optimum
plant growth) also. These include copper,
manganese, zinc, molybdenum, boron, chlorine
and cobalt. Starter fertilizer is usually
added to the soil before the seed is planted
to provide nutrients to feed a healthy
seedling. As the cotton plant grows, its
nutrient requirement is monitored and any
additions needed are applied.
Insect
pests have plagued the cotton growing industry
over the years and they are a source of
constant concern to growers. Insects such
as aphid, mite, bollworms, boll weevil,
lygus, thrip, white fly,
and pink bollworms cause serious
destruction to the cotton plants' squares,
bolls, leaves, and fiber resulting in a
monetary loss to the cotton grower. The
pink bollworm is responsible for the most
cotton damage and has been found in all
of the cotton producing countries, including
the United States. The spread of this
pest is being held in check by plowing
cotton stalks under more than 6 inches
deep immediately after harvest to remove
over-wintering habitat. There are also
beneficial insects or predator insects that feed on
various insect pests. Most growers use
the services of a crop consultant to monitor their fields for insect pest
populations and advise them on treatment. If
the insect pest population increases to
a level that may severely affect the field's
production potential, the grower may then
be advised to use an insecticide (a chemical
product used to suppress or eliminate an
insect pest). These products may be applied
by a ground application vehicle specially
designed to avoid damaging the cotton plants. Airplanes
and/or helicopters are used for air applications,
flown low over the field by trained pilots
to deliver their load.
A
method of insect pest control being practiced
on a limited basis is called integrated pest management (I.P.M.). This
method coordinates the use of insecticides
and the dispersal of beneficial insects
purchased to aid in suppressing unwanted
insects. Research is being done to find
insects to control a wider spectrum of
insect pests, a limiting factor of effectiveness
in today's I.P.M. practices.
Pest
management in cotton production today contributes
a substantial share of the costs involved
in raising a crop. The cotton farmer is
reluctant to treat weed and insect pests
unless absolutely necessary to protect
crop yield potential. The correct decisions
and timing of both irrigations and pest
control measures is an ally to a grower's
success as he/she guides their crop to
maturity.
When
enough bolls have opened naturally, harvest
aids are applied to the plant to help speed
up the maturation process. This, also,
is done either by ground or air application. Defoliation helps the
leaves to dry and fall off and to help
any of the remaining unopened cotton bolls
to open. This practice enables the grower
to hasten the opening of the cotton bolls
which can then be gathered quickly, in
a short period of time. It is essential
that the crop is harvested before weather
and rain can damage or ruin its quality
and reduce yield. Frost also causes the
plant to shed its leaves naturally and
assists in splitting bolls, but may occur
too late in the season to benefit harvest. Now
the cotton crop is ready to be harvested.
For
centuries cotton has been picked by hand. Hand
picking is done in the less progressive
cotton growing regions of the world. It
is very inefficient and no longer practiced
in modernized countries.
As
the mechanical cotton picker moves
through the field, the cotton plants are
guided through the picker head (a unit that contains
the picking components). The seed cotton,
or locks, in the bur encounter revolving
barbed spindles attached to a picking bar (a vertical
bar that contains 18 to 20 spindles) attached
to a rotating drum. The locks are grabbed
by the barbed spindle and pulled from its
bur. The rotating drum then moves the
picking bar toward the doffer. A doffer is
a series of curricular, rubber lined pads,
stacked 18 to 20 high, that remove cotton
from the spindle. The seed cotton and
spindles pass through the doffer where
the cotton is removed or doffed from the
spindle to fall to the picker door (a side component of the picker with channeling
to facilitate the movement of cotton). An
air vacuum created by a fan then sucks
the cotton away from the door and blows
it into the basket. The spindle now continues
on its rotation passing through the moistener pads (small
finned pads stacked 18 to 20 high, which
add water and/or moistening agent to the
spindles) where they are lubricated to
assist in cleaning them. This sequence
repeats itself continually while the cotton
is being picked. Spindle type cotton pickers
harvest most of the cotton grown in the
United States.
In
some areas of the Cotton Belt, brush strippers
are used to harvest seed cotton. These
machines remove bolls and burs from the
plant with rotating brushes and bats. Material
is fed into a field cleaner where much
of the burs and sticks are removed and
blown into a large basket. They are used
primarily in dryland farming cotton areas
in Texas where the cotton plant varieties
are more compact in stature. Small plant
size is important when using a stripper
because they tend to accumulate more trash (leaves, bolls,
stems and branches) in their harvested
product.
Today’s
modern cotton harvesters can cover up to
6 to 8 rows at a time and can harvest up
to 190,000 pounds of seed cotton a day. These
new cotton harvesters are a major improvement
over the hand methods of the past.
Prior
to the development of the module builder, most
cotton picked by machines was dumped into cotton
trailers and hauled to a cotton
gin (a place where seed and
fiber are mechanically separated). This system
became inefficient when the trailers were filled
faster than the gin could process the cotton
and the cotton pickers had to cease harvesting
while waiting for trailers to empty. This
challenge was met with the invention of the module
builder in 1972. This implement
allows cotton to be dumped from the picker
onto the ground and be compressed hydraulically
to form a module (tightly
pressed stack) of cotton. Each module holds
12-14 bales. This module can be left in the
field for storage and later be hauled directly
to the gin or transported by a module mover
to the gin’s storage yard. The use of these
builders allow the pickers to continue harvesting,
unimpeded by ginning problems or delays.
|
PROCESSING
THE CROP
The
cotton gin is where cotton fiber is separated
from the cotton seed. The first step
in the ginning process is when the cotton
is vacuumed into tubes that carry it
to a dryer to reduce moisture and improve
the fiber quality. Then it runs through
cleaning equipment to remove leaf trash,
sticks and other foreign matter.
Ginning
is accomplished by one of two methods. Cotton
varieties with shorter staple or fiber
length are ginned with saw gins. This process involves the use of
circular saws that grip the fibers and
pull them through narrow slots.
The
seeds are too large to pass through
these openings, resulting in the
fibers being pulled away from the
seed. Long fiber cottons must
be ginned in a roller gin because saw gins can damage their delicate
fibers. The roller gin was invented
in India centuries ago and this
concept is still used in modern
gins. Long
staple cottons, like Pima, separate
from the seed more easily than
Upland varietie. A roller gin
uses a rough roller to grab the
fiber and pull it under a rotating
bar with gaps too small for the
seed to pass.
|
The
raw fiber, now called lint,
makes its way through another series of pipes
to a press where it is compressed into bales (lint packaged
for market), banded with eight steel straps,
sampled for classing, wrapped for protection
then loaded onto trucks for shipment to storage
yards, textile mills and foreign countries. The
cotton industry has adopted a standard for
a bale of cotton, 55 inches tall, 28 inches
wide, and 21 inches thick, weighing approximately
500 pounds. A bale meeting these requirements
is called a universal density bale. This
is enough cotton to make 325 pairs of denim
jeans.
Every
bale of cotton is classed from a sample
taken after its formation. The classing of
cotton lint is the process of measuring
fiber characteristics against a set of
standards (grades). Classing is done by
experts, called classers, who use scientific
instruments to judge the samples of lint. All
standards are established by the U.S. Department
of Agriculture. Once the quality of the
cotton bale is determined, pricing parameters
are set and the lint may be taken to market. Cotton marketing is the selling and buying of cotton lint. Cotton
is priced in cents per pound when sold
and the price is negotiated according to
the cotton's quality. After baling, the
cotton lint is hauled to either storage
yards, textile mills, or shipped to foreign
countries. The cotton seed is delivered
to a seed storage area. Where it will
remain until it is loaded into trucks and
transported to a cottonseed oil mill or
directly for livestock feed.
|
COTTON
LINT
Textile
mills purchase cotton and receive
the bales from gin yards or cotton
warehouses. These mills start with
raw bales of cotton and process them
in stages until they produce yarn (fibers
twisted into threads used in weaving
or knitting) or cloth (fabric or material constructed from
weaving or knitting).
The
first stage is in the opening room. Here,
bales are opened and laid in a line on
the floor, side by side, near a cotton
opening machine. This machine travels
along the line of opened bales, pulling
fibers to be sent to a mixing machine and
then on to the carding system.
Carding is the process of pulling the fibers into parallel alignment
to form a thin web. High speed electronic
equipment with wire toothed rollers
perform this task. The web of fibers
is eventually condensed into a continuous,
untwisted, rope-like strand called
a sliver, (pronounced slyver).
These
slivers then continue to a combing machine. Here,
the fibers shorter than half-inch
and impurities are removed from
the cotton. |
This
process makes the sliver smoother so more uniform
yarns can be produced. The drawing or pulling
of this sliver is next.
The
sliver is drawn out to a thinner strand
and given a slight twist to improve strength,
then wound on bobbins (spools wound
with the thread-like product for storage). Having
completed this process, it is now called roving. The roving bobbins are now ready for
the spinning process.
Spinning is
the last process in yarn manufacturing. Today's
mills draw and twist the roving into yarn and
place it on bobbins. They do this quite efficiently. A
large, modern mill can produce enough yarn
or thread in 30 days to wrap around the earth
2300 times or go to and return from the moon
235 times. With the use of automatic winding,
the yarn bobbins are transferred to larger
bobbins called cheese cones. These cheese cones can be stored until
they are needed in the weaving process.
The weaving process uses yarn that, depending on
how it lies in the woven goods, now assume
different names. These yarns may now be either
a warp or a weft yarn. Warp refers
to yarns that run lengthwise in woven goods. In
preparation of warp yarns for weaving, hundreds
of yarn strands are wound from cheese cones
onto a large warp beam. Yarns on this beam
are then coated with a sizing compound (a starch mixture) to add strength
for weaving. The sized yarns are then wound
onto a loom beam that will be placed on the loom (a machine used to interlace yarns to
form cloth). Weft is the yarn that runs crosswise in woven
goods and may be referred to as filling yarn. Sizing
is not placed on weft because flexibility is
needed in the weaving process. In today's
most modern mills, the weft is fed into the
loom from cheese cones with air-jets at such
a high speed that its movement cannot be seen.
The
woven cloth from the loom, called greige or grey, is
whitish but has a natural yellow tint. This
cloth is further treated by various means to
improve its appearance and feel, then either
bleached, dyed or printed to produce the fabrics
used in various products seen on store shelves.
There
are three basic weaves that are used. The plain weave, the
most common, is produced by passing the weft
yarn over and under each warp yarn, alternating
each row. This is used for cotton print cloth,
sheeting, muslin and more. The twill weave is produced
by interlacing yarns in an angle to form straight,
diagonal ridges across the fabric. This is
used for sturdy products such as denim, gabardine
and ticking. The satin
weave, has a surface that consists
mostly of warp yarn which is passed over and
under all but one weft yarn that intersects
in a regular or irregular formation, not a
straight line. This weave produces a fabric
with a smooth surface. It is used for upholstery, home
decorating and fashionable apparel.
Knitting is
another method of turning yarn into fabric. Knit
fabric is constructed of yarns made into loops (stitches)
which are linked together by the use of needles. There
are two basic types of knitted fabric. The weft knit fabrics are made with yarns forming
loops the width of the fabric on a circular
machine, producing jersey knit used in T-shirts
and underwear. The warp knit fabrics are
produced by feeding yarns to form loops in
a lengthwise direction and are used for tricot
fabrics and cotton lace. Knitted fabrics are
softer and more flexible than woven fabrics. Making
them ideal for sweaters, active sportswear
and hosiery.
|
COTTON
SEED
Cottonseed mills, in the late 1800's, used manual
powered mechanical pressure to squeeze
the oil from the seed. This was very labor
intensive and at best recovered only one-half
the oil contained in the seed. Today's
mills are either screw press or solvent extraction types. The
oil is removed from the meats leaving only
1-2 percent oil in the meats. With the
production of 790 lbs. of cottonseed per
bale of cotton lint, modern mills can extract
140 pounds of cottonseed oil. This essentially
doubles the oil production efficiency of
the older mills.
Processing
of cottonseed in modern mills involves
a number of steps. The first step
is its entry into the shaker room where, through a number of screens
and air equipment, twigs, leaves
and other trash are removed. The
cleaned seed is then sent to gin
stands, similar to those in cotton
saw gins, where the linters are removed
from the seed (delinted). |
This
linter removal process is usually done twice
and the fibers are collected and pressed into
600 pound bales. The linters of the highest
grade, referred to as first-cut
linters (longer more resilient
fibers) are used in manufacturing non-chemical
products, such as medical supplies, twine,
and candle wicks. The second-cut linters (short
fibers or fuzz), removed in further delinting
steps, are incorporated in chemical products,
found in various foods, toiletries, film, and
paper.
The
delinted seeds now go to the huller. The huller removes the tough seed coat with a series
of knives and shakers. The knives cut
the hulls (tough
outer shell of the seed) to loosen them
from the kernels (the inside meat of the seed, rich
in oil) and shakers separate the hulls
and kernels. The kernels are now ready
for oil extraction and the hulls are sent
to storage to be sold for livestock feed. Some
industrial uses for hulls have been developed
and are being tested. A plastic containing
hulls as a major ingredient has been used
in producing small parts for textile machinery. Hulls
are often incorporated in the mud used
in oil well drilling. They are also used
in the production of synthetic rubber and
in petroleum refining.
The meats (kernels) are now prepared for oil extraction. They
pass through flaking rollers made
of heavy cast iron, spinning at high speeds. This
presses the meats into thin flakes. These
flakes then travel to a cooker where they are cooked at 170 degrees
F to reduce their moisture levels. In screw press mills, the
kernels flow directly into a press which
has a screw or worm gear revolving inside
a horizontal steel barrel. This meat grinder
type action exposes the flakes to extremely
high pressure, 10 to 12 tons per square
inch, forcing 96% of the oil from the meats. In
the solvent extraction mills, the cooked meats are flaked
to about the thickness of paper and exposed
to live steam and high pressure. This
action ruptures the oil cells making the
oil accessible for the solvent extraction
process.
The
prepared meats are conveyed to the extractor and
washed with hexane (organic
solvent that dissolves out the oil) removing
up to 98% of the oil. This hexane-oil
mixture is called miscella. The
miscella is pumped out of the extractor
and is distilled by boiling the hexane
from the mixture and condensing it with
cooling water. The hexane is reused over
and over again. The crude cottonseed
oil is then ready for further processing
and the de-oiled meats are subjected to
live steam for removal of residual hexane. The
meats are then dried and ground to produce
a 41% protein livestock feed, called cottonseed meal. Cottonseed
meals' major value is the high protein
it contains to build muscle, nerve, blood
and hair. A small amount of cottonseed
meal is used for fertilizer. Its organic
matter improves soil texture and reduces
watering needs.
Crude
cottonseed oil requires further processing
before it may be used for food. The first
step in this process is refining. With the scientific use of heat, sodium
hydroxide and a centrifuge (equipment
used to separate substances through spinning
action), the dark colored crude oil is
transformed into a transparent, yellow
oil. This clear oil may then be bleached
with a special bleaching clay to produce
a transparent, amber colored oil. Upon
further processing, the oil is deodorized or treated
so it will remain clear and have no unwanted
flavors.
Cottonseed
oil is used in several products. Depending
on its stage of refinement, it can be used
in snack foods, mayonnaise, margarine,
baking or frying oils, explosives, cosmetics,
rubber, soap, insecticides and many other
products. Foodstuff cottonseed oil has
superior nutritive qualities and is on
the American Heart Association's list of "okay
foods".
Although
fiber is the most valuable product from
a cotton field, it is important to remember
that this versatile plant also provides
many products for human and animal consumption. It
is from this perspective that cotton becomes
a food crop.
|
THE COTTON
INDUSTRY AND YOU
The
cotton industry is constantly striving
to develop new and improved methods for
producing quality products at a reasonable
price. The cotton industry continues to
look toward the future at further improving
their product while providing employment
opportunities for millions of people in
a variety of related areas.
Cotton
related job opportunities can be found
from the farm where the cotton is produced
to the department store where the garments
are sold. Cotton supports the dairy industry
by providing a source of food for the milk
cows.
Cotton
seed can be processed to produce
oil for cooking and blending with
food products. Jobs can be found
in the trucking and transportation
industry as it is often transported
thousands of miles from the cotton
gins to the cotton mills, and then
again to the distribution outlets.
Transforming
the cotton boll through the processes
of delinting and cleaning at the
gin to processing at the mill for
spinning and weaving fabric requires
a trained labor force. |
The
dying of fabric and the assembly of clothing
and other products can provide employment
for many. High quality papers requiring
cotton and paper mills employ thousands
annually. The fashion industry needs trained
individuals to select the proper combination
of fabrics and design to market them to
the public. Fashion models rely on these
products in their profession. The cotton
industry continues to find new and improved
uses for cotton worldwide and the public
fuels continuous demand for this important
commodity. With cotton having all these
uses and benefits, it has certainly lived
up to the name it was given years ago...."White
Gold."
|
Sample
Questions
- In what country
was the oldest cotton fabric discovered?
Mexico
-
Where was cotton
first known to be cultivated?
India
-
Name the major
cotton producing areas of the world?
United States, China, India, Pakistan, and Republic
of Uzbekistan. Also, Brazil, Australia,
Egypt, Argentina, Turkey, Greece,
and Syria
-
Why did the
English resist the progress of
cotton?
Wool manufacturers did not want competition from cotton
fiber.
-
Who invented
the cotton gin and when?
Eli Whitney, in 1793
-
Where was cotton
first known to be grown in the
U.S. and by whom?
The Spaniards first grew cotton in Florida.
-
Who invented
the first U.S. cotton mill?
Samuel Slater
-
What are cotton
locks called after removal from
the cotton bur?
Seed cotton
-
What process
is used to separate cottonseed
from fiber?
Ginning
-
What is cotton
fiber called after separated from
the seed?
Lint
-
How is cotton
harvested in modernized countries?
Mechanical spindle pickers or brush strippers harvest
cotton.
-
How was cotton
first harvested?
By hand
-
What did the
Rust Brothers of Mississippi invent?
The mechanical cotton picker
-
What is a popular
term used for cotton?
"White Gold"
-
What is wild
cotton?
Cotton that grows uncultivated in the world.
-
Name the varieties
of cotton grown in the United States?
American Pima and Upland
-
What is the
Cotton Belt?
The cotton producing region of the United States.
-
How many states
form the Cotton Belt?
Seventeen-California, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma,
Arkansas, Missouri, Mississippi,
Alabama, Louisiana, Florida, Tennessee,
North Carolina, South Carolina, Virginia,
Georgia, and Kansas
-
Which variety
of U.S. cotton has the longest
and shortest fiber?
Upland has the shortest fiber and Pima has the longest
fiber.
-
Which varieties
of cotton are the most common?
Upland and Pima
-
What are cotyledons?
Seedling leaves, first to appear on the cotton plant.
-
What do cotyledons
help provide for a young plant?
Cotyledons help produce food for the young plant through
photosynthesis.
-
What is photosynthesis?
The process that uses the chlorophyll in plants to
convert sunlight to carbohydrates.
-
Name the various
parts of the cotton plant?
Leaves, squares, flower, boll, bracts, locks, carpel
and bur.
-
Name the components
of the dry mature cotton boll?
The bur is made of dried carpels and cotton locks.
-
What is a seedbed?
The row or ridge in which the cotton seeds will be
planted.
-
What is listing?
Forming the land into ridges and furrows.
-
What is irrigation?
Adding moisture to the soil by artificial means.
-
Name three methods
of irrigation?
Furrow, sprinkler and drip tape irrigation
-
What is rain-feed
farming?
Depending entirely on rainfall for moisture needed
for plant growth.
-
Name three methods
of weed control in a cotton field?
Mechanical cultivation, hand rogueing and herbicides.
-
Describe each
method of weed control?
Cultivation-Uses a mechanical implement to loosen the
soil and remove weed. Hand rogueing-Is physical labor using a weed hoe to
remove weeds. Herbicides-Uses chemicals to control weeds.
-
What does a
cotton planter do?
Mechanically places the seed in the soil.
-
List two methods
of planting?
Hand planting and mechanical
-
What is a crop
consultant?
A person who monitors a field for pests and recommends
treatment if necessary.
-
How are insect
pests controlled or eliminated?
By the use of insecticide or predator insects.
-
Define I.P.M.?
Integrated Pest Management
is the use of beneficial insects
to help control the harmful insect
(pest) population.
-
What is fertilizer?
Plant food or nutrients added to the crop to enhance
growth.
-
Name insect
pests that plague cotton fields?
Aphid, mite, bollworms, boll weevil, lygus, thrip,
white fly and pink bollworms.
-
What are beneficial
insects called?
Predator insects
-
What does a
defoliant do?
Aids in the cotton harvest by causing the plant's leaves
to dry and fall off.
-
What is the
picker head of a cotton picker?
The unit of the cotton picker that contains the picking
components.
-
Name some components
of the picker head?
Spindles, picking bar, moistener pads, doffer, and
picker door
-
Describe the
mechanics of the picking components?
Spindles-Barbed steel units that revolve to grab and
pull the lint from the opened bolls.
Picking bar-A vertical bar that contains 18-20 spindles.
Moistener pads-Small finned pads which add moisture
to the spindles and help clean them.
Doffer-A series of circular rubber pads that clean
cotton from the spindles.
Picker door-A place on the machine where cotton drops
before being blown into the picker basket.
-
How is a stripper
harvester different from a mechanical
cotton picker?
A stripper strips opened and unopened bolls from the
plant instead of "plucking" the cotton from the bur
-
What is trash
in the harvested cotton?
Leaves, stems, branches and burs.
-
Name the two
types of gins?
Roller and saw gin
-
Briefly explain
the mechanics of each type of gin?
Roller Gin-Uses a roller to grab and pull the fiber
under a rotating bar with gaps too small for the seed to pass through.
Saw Gin-Uses curricular saws that grip the fiber and
pull it through narrow slots too small for the seed to pass.
-
What is a module
builder?
An implement that forms modules (or tightly pressed
stacks) of cotton.
-
Name the ginning
process for short staple lint and
for long staple lint?
Short staple-Saw ginning and long staple-Roller ginning
-
Why are huge
dryers used in the ginning process?
To reduce moisture and improve fiber quality of the
cotton lint.
-
In what country
were roller gins invented?
India
-
What is raw
fiber called after ginning?
Cotton lint
-
What becomes
of the seed and fiber after separation?
Seed goes to cottonseed oil mills or for livestock
feed. The fiber goes to textile mills
or foreign countries.
-
What is lint
packaged for market called?
A bale of cotton
-
How many pounds
are in a bale?
Approximately 500 pounds
-
What are the
measurements of a universal density
bale?
55" tall, 28" wide and 21" thick
-
Describe what
linters are?
The short, fuzzy fibers still attached to the seed
after ginning.
-
What is classing?
The process which measures fiber characteristics against
a set of standards.
-
Where is Yarn
and cloth fabricated?
A textile mill
-
What happens
in the opening room of a textile
mill?
Bales of lint are opened and placed in a row.
-
Define carding?
The process of pulling the fibers into parallel alignment
to form a thin web.
-
What is a sliver?
The first step of turning lint into yarn. Fibers that
have been pulled into a continuous,
untwisted, rope-like strand.
-
Describe combing?
The process which removes impurities and fibers shorter
than ½" from the cotton, so that smoother and more uniform yarn may
be produced.
-
What is roving?
Sliver which has been drawn out to a thinner strand
and given a slight twist to improve
strength.
-
What is the
final process in yarn manufacturing?
Spinning
-
Describe the
spinning process?
The roving is drawn and twisted into a fine yarn and
then wound onto bobbins.
-
What two names
is yarn called during and after
the weaving process?
Weft (filling) is the crosswise yarn and warp is the
lengthwise yarn.
-
What adds strength
to the yarn before weaving?
Warp yarns are coated with a sizing compound or starch
mixture before weaving.
-
Name the three
basic weaves?
Plain, twill and satin
-
Briefly describe
the three basic weaves?
Plain-Weft yarn passes over and under each warp yarn.
Twill-Yarns are interlaced in an angle to form straight,
diagonal ridges.
Satin-Smooth surface is made up mostly of warp yarn
passing over and under all but one
yarn, intersecting in a regular of
irregular formation, not a straight
line.
-
Name another
method of turning yarn into fabric
using needles?
Knitting
-
How is knit
fabric constructed?
Yarn is made into loops (stitches) which are linked
together by the use of needles.
-
Explain the
two basic types of knit fabrics?
Weft knit-Made on a circular needle machine producing
fabric in a tubular form.
Warp knit-A single yarn is twisted and entwined in
several directions lengthwise in an action similar to several yarns entering
a machine.
-
Name two types
of cottonseed oil mills?
Screw press and solvent extraction
-
Explain how
solvent extraction and screw press
mills differ?
Solvent extraction-Uses an organic solvent that dissolves
the oil from the prepared meats (kernels).
Screw press-Uses high pressure created by a press to
force the oil from the meats.
-
Describe the
first step in processing cottonseed
for oil extraction?
In the shaker room a series of screens and air equipment
remove trash from the cottonseed.
The seed is then sent to gin stands
where the linters are removed from the seed and pressed into bales.
-
How many times
is the delinting process done at
the cottonseed oil mill?
Usually twice, or sometimes three times.
-
Name products
produced from the first cut and
second cut linters?
First cut-Non-chemical products (medical supplies,
twine, candle wicks, etc.)
Second cut-Chemical products (foodstuff, film, paper,
toiletries, etc.)
-
What is the
tough outer shell of the cottonseed
called?
The hull
-
Name the inside
meat of the cottonseed rich in
oil?
The kernel
-
Explain the
flaking roller and cooker processes
in oil extraction?
The prepared kernels pass through a series of heavy
cast iron rollers that press the
meats into thin flakes, then travel
to a cooker to reduce their moisture
level.
-
What is miscella?
A cottonseed oil and hexane (organic solvent) mixture
-
What is cottonseed
meal?
The meats that have been de-oiled, dried and ground
to produce high protein livestock
feed.
-
Explain the
refining and deodorizing of cottonseed
oil for food?
Refiner-With the use of heat, sodium hydroxide and a centrifuge
the dark oil is transformed into clear yellow oil.
Deodorize-Processes the oil for a lasting clear appearance
and no unwanted flavor.
|
| |
|
|
|